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Object lesson: The tuxedo jacket

katekate

I rarely write about Kate Moss: her life choices bring out the mumsy pearl-clutcher in me; I loathe the way our culture can fetishize certain “wasted” glamorous women, like her and, say, Edie Sedgwick. But the woman can can certainly nail a look, and currently, I stand in awe of her mastery of the tuxedo jacket.

kate shawl collar

She has many, and wears them to  varied effect, but almost invariably with all black, which of course I love.

kate tuxedo

Ms. Moss—who just turned 40—hasn’t abandoned her leather jackets and I can’t imagine she ever will. But I feel like her increasing reliance on this more polished menswear piece is evidence that she’s paying attention to matters like growing up her look just a touch. Which makes her like one of us in a way I find quite winning.

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Here are a few jackets that remind me of her best ones. First up: Nothing beats a nice, sharp peak lapel in my book.

 

6680_black_c_z

leather lapel takes things in a rock and roll direction.

topshop shawl collar

This oversize, low shawl collar version is the perfect butt-covering option for skinny jeans.

 

 

 

Posted on December 16th, 2014 45 Comments

45 Responses

  1. Dianne says:

    I don’t consider a tux jacket grown up at all.

    A million years ago (the early to mid 80s) I wore tuxedo jackets or white dinner jackets with black stove pipe jeans and biker-ish boots to emulate Chrissie Hynde, who often wore the look on stage and in photo shoots. In her pre-Peta days Chrissie even wore the tux/dinner jacket with leather lapels when she wasn’t rocking her red or black moto jackets.

    Of course Kate Moss is styling the jacket in a slightly grown up way, but worn over a band t shirt and with black leather or denim tux jackets rock.

    Just Think Chrissie Hydne!

  2. Anonymous says:

    “wasted”…perhaps she often is, but she has managed to maintain her standing as a top model far longer than most, as well as her privacy. she can’t be that messed up.

    • Margie Cansino says:

      “wasted”? At a certain age I would hope for a less catty post. I agree with Anonymous, she can’t be that messed up. How do you know Wintour or DVF or Betsey J don’t do the same? Or any of them for that matter? Didn’t Einstein have a drug problem?

      • gk2829 says:

        She can say whatever she wants. It is her blog. You also have the right to disagree.

        • Margie Cansino says:

          Thanks! I did not tell her what she can or cannot post did I? Thanks for clarifying my rights as well. I just think at a certain age we should not publicly call another “wasted”. It seems so, what is the word? Oh yes, teenage. But then this blog is called GIRLS of a certain age, maybe teenage, and possibly I just misunderstood that the demographic was more mature women. Most of the posts on this blog have nothing to do with “a certain age” anyway. The posts are super general and it almost seems as if the author is not really plugged in at all. Like phoning it in, so-to-speak.

          • y.k. says:

            really? but so many of her posts are nostalgic& refer to 70s80s moments, trends, celebs – all meaningful to us of that certain age.

      • Dana D says:

        No offense to all those pretty girls but the bar is set awfully low for them to start with…only rarely, Turlington comes to mind, does one do much to make the world better for me care one way or the other about drug use, under-eating or how messed up she is.

        Clothes always look damn good on Kate and that’s what she is paid for.

  3. Paisley says:

    Gahhhh, those fringed boot(i.e.)s!!! Christian Louboutin and his anti-feminist heel heights and anti-humanist price points bring out the mumsy pearl-clutched in me, but I am in love with those boots (photo #3) in spite of myself. Kim, do an epic post on fringy things! This would be on my list if the strap were an actual cross-body length: http://www.stories.com/us/Sale/All_sale/Fringe_Leather_Bag/590757-100024508.1

    Also, turning my attention to the actual subject matter, she hasn’t been in the tabloids much lately, has she? Maybe life with Jamie the elder has had a taming effect? Also, those pants in picture one are gnarly. Not in a good way.

    • Paisley says:

      Just had to say, auto-correct shamed me again. It was supposed to read boot(ie)s and clutcher, not boot(i.e.)s and clutched. I had a war with the computer on “mumsy.”

    • y.k. says:

      yes i love those fringed boots too – fringe is always cool to some degree it seems, i second the request!

  4. c.w. says:

    Vegetarian that I am, I still love the leather lapel one. I do have a cropped tux jacket by Brian Reyes that I’ve worn and worn and worn. The styling issue with a cropped tux jacket is you can look very maitre d’ if you aren’t careful.

    • edie says:

      I actually have that leather lapel one. It’s a terrific jacket–runs a bit large but always looks good and seems to be just the right length all the time, which is asking a lot of a jacket. Just enough leather to be edgy. The sale price is pretty fabulous!

  5. arbitress says:

    I just bought a leather lapel version from Ann Taylor which is so cute – and cheap!

  6. Carol White says:

    I love the look of the tux jacket. I have two and they look best with an all black look.

  7. Mamavalveeta03 says:

    Kim, I’m going against the stream of those that are calling you out for saying what you think about the deification of Kate Moss. A great model? Yup. Street-style star? Yes. But that’s all.
    I think there’s WAY too much hero-worship in Westernized culture. I find glamourization of the drug-culture pretty vapid. But it makes for great photos in “W,” right? And nothing like a “Model/starlet OD’s from heroin” to sell magazines forever. To deny that it exists is absurd. Say what you think, but be prepared to be called “judgy” for questioning the icon’s lifestyle.

  8. joannawnyc says:

    I love you for the Kate Moss comment.

    I also love a good tux jacket. I stole my dad’s tux jacket (from the 40s) and wore it in my 20s. Still looking for the perfect replacement, some decades later 😉

  9. caroline says:

    I admit I do judge her.. Then I judge myself for judging her..
    The whole exercise for me is a huge waist of time..
    So I just choose to look at her as someone who looks good in clothes and move on..
    An icon.. Not for me.
    might need the long one though.
    Liking the butt coverage.

  10. I have much love for my leather lapel tux blazer by Rag & Bone.

  11. gilli says:

    Not quite getting your issue with Kate Moss…..? She seems to be doing just fine.

  12. c.w. says:

    I’ve been trying really hard to not respond to the “catty” comment, but alas, I’ve failed. First of all any comparison between Kate Moss and Albert Einstein is rather ludicrous. Historically many, many brilliant and creative types have self-medicated with alcohol and/or drugs. Did Einstein use cocaine? There is nothing definitive to say he did. Did he die of a heart aneurysm? Yes. Can you die of a heart aneurysm ONLY by using cocaine? Of course not. Is Kate Moss creative and/or brilliant? No. Does she wear clothes well? Yes. Does she use drugs? She is the model for which the phrase “heroine chic” was coined. She has been in rehab at least twice. Johnny Depp said he used cocaine with her. There was a photo of her using cocaine published in a British tabloid a couple of years ago (or maybe it was a few years ago). My best-informed guess is she has probably used cocaine. Does she now? Don’t know. Don’t care. Is it “catty” to mention her drug use? Depends on how you phrase it. Did KF refer to Kate Moss’s possible drug use in a catty tone? My opinion…no. I believe that Ms. Cansino’s comment rubbed some of us the wrong way because she didn’t address KF directly or privately, but used KF’s public forum to take her to task which, at least to me, is rather…dare I say it…catty.

    • JM says:

      I don’t have a particular opinion one way or another about Kim’s comments, but I don’t get why someone who writes publicly on a blog should be criticized only privately. How is it catty to criticize public comments publicly? Kim can say whatever she wants on her blog but if your writing is public, how can you not expect the response to be public?

      • c.w. says:

        If Ms. Cansino had posted a reply of her own saying, “Kim, I disagree because of…yada yada yada…” that would be one thing, but she posted a reply to Anonymous which is, in blog etiquette, like talking behind someone’s back where everyone at the party can hear you and I find that catty. But that’s just me and I posted my opinion publicly so JM you have every right to voice a different opinion or question my logic (my near and dear ones question my logic constantly so you would not be alone!).

        And, Kim, I’ve also always clutched my grandmother’s pearls to my chest regarding Edie Sedgwick––she seemed to be such a sad little thing and I can’t imagine anyone wanting a life like hers.

        • Margie Cansino says:

          oops I didn’t notice the anon, and did not know about blogger reply rules about responding to anons. I will make notes on the rules. Thanks. Who are you comment rule makers?

          • edie says:

            Um, your comment says “I agree with Anonymous.” Hard to believe then that you didn’t notice it.

      • Margie Cansino says:

        exactly!

  13. Kim says:

    Ha, I was pearl-clutching about Edie Sedgwick probably 30 years ago when everyone was reading that biography of her. A contemporary (we were in our 20s) told me “I wish I was her” and I was truly shocked that someone would want such a sad (if “cool”) life.

    • caroline says:

      Ha! Total flash back.
      Sadly people love a beautiful wreck … When it ends badly it’s that much more compelling…not sure I would put Kate Moss in that camp.
      Have to admit I went through a heavy black tights and eyeliner period after reading that book…

  14. Viajera says:

    I find it much more of a problem that designers and editors want models to be super-thin and don’t care at all about how they get or stay that way. Drug use is just one of many ways to be unhealthy yet thin.

    But we all get tired of that issue, right? Because no matter how much we talk, nothing changes.

  15. Rosie says:

    OMG, Edie Sedgwick. I forgot about her. Yes, as a girl of that age I read her biography, and in those days I loved it. I took that book everywhere. Thankfully long over it.

    I saw Ciao Manhattan! about a month ago and was horrified. The worst movie ever, I couldn’t finish it.

    • Liz says:

      I LOVED that Edie book when I was in high school, and to be fair, I think our obsession with her had more to do with the unusual oral history format of the book combined with the characters she surrounded herself with. I don’t remember the drug use being part of her appeal at all.

      She just seemed to be the most self assured girl at all the best parties and she had crazy stories to tell, the most creative personal style, and an enigmatic poise that made her stand out. Basically, she had everything you want when you’re in your late teens/early 20’s. Kate Moss was just a model. She didn’t really evoke anything other than “pretty girl.”

  16. c.w. says:

    This is pretty interesting to watch…a bit of an interview on Merv Griffin with Andy Warhol and Edie Sedgwick…she is truly beautiful (and that smoky eye!!)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8sptsjCk18

    • y.k. says:

      o that’s a gem!! so fun to watch. i remember merv from his 70’s show, watched it obsessively. andy& edie are both real characters.

  17. ramonaquimby says:

    Whose jacket do we think Kate is wearing in the top pick? It’s like the uber tuxedo jacket. Sigh.

    Staying out of the whole Kate/Edie convo though…

  18. Amy says:

    I hate that I love Kate Moss. She’s just so. damn. cool. And being British doesn’t hurt. While I’m here…Kim, I’m still mad at you and Andrea for selling Lucky. It was perfection but no more.

  19. Kate is super stylish no doubt and we can learn from her style. Even though, I do remember rocking a tuxedo back in the 90s… I feel it’s fresh and cool. Wearing skinny jeans helps!
    x Nina
    trendsurvivor.com